Alpine...

Alpine Climbing

What is it?

Alpine Climbing is also often referred to as mountaineering and generally suggests that one will be summiting a peak (though that is not always the case). It is a type of climbing that can vary widely depending on the participant's skill level and specific interests. Often alpine climbing combines aspects from all types of climbing as well as tramping and camping. Any given alpine trip can involve rock climbing, ice climbing, glacier walking and camping. Oh yeah, it is also the BEST form of climbing.

What MUAC does.

MUAC offers at least two opportunities for for basic alpine instruction courses each winter. These trips usually just cover the basics of self arrest, ice axe and crampon use, and general mountain safety. Other trips that are run occasionally are ice climbing and summit trips. MUAC also owns and operates a hut near the Turoa skifield on Mt.Ruapehu. 

Local Opportunities

New Zealand is truly a world class destination for alpinists and offers a huge variety for all skill levels. While much attention is given to the Southern Alps, there is a lot of potential on the North Island for the aspiring climber to gain experience for the bigger peaks.

Mt.Ruapehu offers a myriad of choices from the easiest summer day climbs to hard-out technical winter routes. The standard routes to the summit head up from the Whakapapa and Turoa skifields and can be climbed in either summer or winter by a group with moderate outdoor knowledge.

More technical alpine routes can be found on the subsidiary peaks of Ruapehu, such as Girdlestone and the Pinnacle Ridge near Whakapapa. While routes are often short they offer superb moderatly-graded challenges in the winter (when ice covers the loose rock).

Waterfall and alpine ice cragging can also be found many places around the mountain, much of it within easy access of the three ski areas.

Taranaki/Mt.Egmont also has many routes on offer for climbers. While the routes here are generally in the low grades they can be quite exciting due to the fact that Taranaki is often plastered in bulletproof water ice - this can make even the lowest angle slopes feel very exposed! The summit crater on Taranaki also offers several single pitch ice climbs and can make for a great bivy spot during the winter months.

For more details on climbing around Ruapehu and Taranaki check out the guidebooks from the NZ Alpine Club.

Remember that the weather in NZ is extremely temperamental and even the easiest summer day climb on these peaks can turn into a monstrous epic if you are not prepared for the worst!

Useful Links

Mountainz; All about NZ mountain sports

Avalanche.net; NZ avalanche Advisory

mtruapehu.com; Weather and snow conditions